Balikpapan city, East Kalimantan, has a new tourist site, which was launched on Tuesday (28/2), namely Warna-Warni Teluk Seribu kampung. The tourists can go along the Somber River to enjoy the expanse of mangrove forests and watch flocks of proboscis monkeys in the upstream area.
Traversing the primary mangrove forest at the Balikpapan Mangrove Center in East Kalimantan is a journey of letting go of your worldly worries and fulfilling your longing for natural splendor. The smooth breeze, rustling mangrove leaves and the complete silence interspersed with the sounds of insects and proboscis monkeys will refresh your soul.
Afternoons are the best time to enjoy this piece of heaven on earth. While the sun is still shining, the canopy of mangrove trunks and leaves provide shade for all visitors. Relaxing in the “veranda” in the center is a fun experience, let alone going into the center and exploring the entire area.
The Balikpapan Mangrove Center is located at the end of the Graha Indah housing complex, 10 kilometers from downtown Balikpapan. Despite being located near the city center, visitors can still enjoy hundreds of hectares of green mangrove forest and the rivers that run through it.
After going through a 50-meter bridge made from ironwood, visitors will arrive at a small dock where a number of fiber and wooden boats are anchored. On Sunday (19/2/2017), when Kompas visited the center, Balikpapan local Herman took us on a boat.
The boat, with a capacity of seven to eight people then sailed slowly through the river. It moved through a twisty tributary only 4-6 meters wide and 1-2 meters deep. Herman drove the boat very carefully.
Speeding below the shady mangrove trees, the sunshine was filtered – seemingly turning afternoon into dusk. The air was fresh. When we observed our surroundings, we found mangrove crabs emerging from the mangrove roots for a moment before going back into hiding. Deeper into the forest, our ears caught the sound of insects seemingly everywhere.
Meeting proboscis monkeys
Among the rustling sounds of mangrove leaves, growls and shrills were also heard. Those were the sound of proboscis monkeys. Where are they anyway? “The proboscis monkeys are shy animals. The moment they hear us, they flee right away,” Balikpapan Mangrove Center head Agus Bei said.
So, shut your mouths tight if you wish to see the monkeys here. Herman then aimed our boat to the edge of the forest and found a small tributary so that the fiber boat, measuring 3 meters long and 1 meter wide, could go deeper into the forest. After finding the tributary, Herman navigated the boat there and shut down the engine. And we waited in complete silence.
Suddenly, sounds were heard from the thick layers of mangrove leaves above. Shrills, growls, shouts and what seemed to be snores filled the air. Leaves were parted, branches moved and a small, cat-sized animal were seen looking back right as us.
This was it – the animal we came here for. A proboscis monkey (Nasalis larvatus), a native resident of the forest. The primate is also known as a “Dutch monkey” due to its reddish brown hair and large nose.
In the afternoon, the monkeys usually come out to find food. The one that we saw was apparently not alone. Not long afterward, eight proboscis monkey younglings emerged just 15-30 meters away from the boat. Nevertheless, they disappeared just as quickly as they had shown themselves.
Not far away, a few adult proboscis monkeys were seen. They were watching over the younglings and suddenly we got the feeling that we were being observed by many sets of eyes. Indeed, it is not easy to approach a proboscis monkey. We saw with our own eyes how the mothers seemed to remind their offspring not to get too close to us.
The mangrove forest is the proboscis monkeys’ natural habitat. As drizzle was pouring down and the air became cooler, more of the monkeys appeared. “It is in weather like this that they show up and find food. They don’t enjoy hot weather. Such a spoiled species, if you ask me,” Herman said, laughing.
After we were satisfied with meeting the proboscis monkeys, Herman turned the boat engine back on. The boat penetrates a “wall” of decades-old mangrove trees, many of which are between 10-20 meters high, and traversed the greenish water that reflected the lush mangrove trees.
We were taken to a larger tributary. Not long afterward, we saw the Somber River, the main body of water in the area. The 100-meter wide river that goes to Balikpapan bay is one of the boundaries of the Mangrove Center.
Locally managed
The Mangrove Center is only 150 hectares in area. However, as it is located right beside a primary mangrove forest, making it appear as if the two separate regions blend together. In July 2010, in order to protect the region, then-Balikpapan mayor Imdaad Hamid designated the Balikpapan Mangrove Center as a conservation zone. The early initiatives came from locals who have reforested the area since early 2000s. The center then became a tourism icon in Balikpapan under the management of residents.
Every week, hundreds of tourists visit the area. “There are still many fish here. I can still catch a 2-kilogram snapper,” said Herman, who loves fishing.
Many local officials, regional heads and students have visited the Balikpapan Mangrove Center. It also serves as a nature laboratory for researchers and academics.
Without traversing the rivers that run through the mangrove forest, visitors can also relax on the riverbank, sit on the ironwood gazebo or walk to the 12-meter-high observation deck.
According to Agus Bei, it would be better for the Balikpapan administration to buy the land to preserve the mangrove center. Protection through spatial planning is believed to be weak.
Nevertheless, Balikpapan mayor Rizal Effendi said limited city funds served as a major challenge to purchasing land for the mangrove center. Therefore, conservation efforts must rely on locals’ commitment to preserving the mangrove forest.
