Burning Fish between the Sand and Stones
Anambas is a place where many waterfalls flow between granite and then flow directly into the sea. Granite blocks larger than container trucks are strewn along the coast of Indonesia’s border with the South China Sea.
The granite on the coast of Anambas consists of many sizes and shapes. Some are shaped like monuments and are composed of piles of stones. There is also a granite rock -- if seen from a distance -- with a fist like a “thumbs-up”.
In addition to the coast, granite is also scattered throughout the middle of the island. Most of the houses of the people are built between granite rock. In fact, a few houses are built from a foundation made of granite.
"Elsewhere, granite is an ornament. In Anambas, it is used as the foundation of the building," said Sahak, a resident of Jemaja Island, one of the islands in Anambas.
When a gemstone fever hit the country recently, many people sharpened the granite and made it as ornate pieces of jewelry. After the fever disappeared, the granite of Anambas kept standing as it had for centuries.
Smooth and cream-colored beaches stretch across the coast. Sandy beaches are usually located on the southern and eastern sides. While giant granite rocks are located on the north and west side.
The weather in Anambas is stormy and windy. During the period from October to early March, Anambas receives strong winds and high waves from the north. Residents call it the “north season”. While during the period of June to early August, high winds and high waves come from the west.
"When I first arrived here a few years ago, I was confused there was a season based on the name of the wind," said Daniel Simorangkir, a man from North Sumatra and a member of the Navy stationed in Anambas.
Burned fish
It is important for travelers to notice the season in Anambas. Visiting the island at a wrong time can be messy. The best time to visit the island is the period between April and May. In that period, the Anambas sea is calm like a lake. The ocean facing the South China Sea is calm like a swimming pool in the yard.
When I first arrived here a few years ago, I was confused there was a season based on the name of the wind.
The sea is calm and clear, the breeze makes people feel at home sitting on the beaches. In Jemaja, there are the Pantai Pandang Melang and Pantai Kusik beaches. The sandy beach of Padang Melang stretches six kilometers and is 30 meters wide. In Kusik, the beach stretches for three kilometers.
Small islands around Jemaja also have shorter beaches. On Ayam (chicken) Island located east of Jemaja, there is a 1.5 kilometer long beach. For most of the year, the sea around the island is quiet because it is protected by Jemaja Island and a number of other islands around it.
While on Mangkai Island, there is a beach less than one kilometer long. There, travelers can watch turtles lay their eggs, usually between June and September.
On the beaches of the small islands, visitors should take lunch with them. Of the 255 islands in Anambas, only 26 are inhabited. The rest have been uninhibited for hundreds of years. Some of the islands have a population of just five people, like on Ayam Island. Only Khairil and his family live on the island.
"I’ve lived here from birth. My brothers have moved to another island," Khairil said.
Most of the islands have water sources. At least there is coconut water as coconut trees grow on almost all islands. Grilled fish is also a common source of sustenance. The fish can be purchased from fishermen who travel back and forth across the waters of Anambas.
The fish is cheap. A cob weighing three kilograms is sold for just Rp 20,000. Anambas fishermen sell fish, based on their size.
Various types of grouper are sold for an average of Rp 70,000 per fish .The size is roughly one kilogram each.
Purchased by travelers
The fish bought from the fisherman is usually taken by travelers to the shore. There, travelers make a fire with wood and then burn the fish. "I have only once eaten half-cooked fish. After swimming, we burned fish. The outside part of the fish looked well-cooked, but the inside part was still half-cooked. However, it was nice too. Unlike in Jakarta, the fish is very fresh” said Doni, a traveler from Jakarta.
Doni and his colleagues did not have any plan to buy the fresh fish. Their boat unexpectedly passed by a fishing boat. After a conversation with the fishermen, Doni and his friends decided to buy fresh fish, caught just a few hours ago around Jemaja.
The fish was not paid for on the spot. "Pay after we return to Letung [the busiest area in Jemaja]," the fishermen told Doni. In fact, it took nine hours for the payment to be completed.
I was surprised it was so easy. People here trust each other. This would never have happened in Jakarta.
Before the accidental encounter, the fishermen and Doni had never met.
"I was surprised it was so easy. People here trust each other. This would never have happened in Jakarta," he said while laughing.
Too late to Anambas
Donni said he was sorry that he had only visited Anambas in early 2017. He had heard of the beauty of Anambas for a long time. "Here, we don’t need to dive into the sea to see the coral reefs. From the beach, the coral reefs can be seen at a distance of five meters and at a depth of less than two meters," he said.
The main obstacle encountered by travelers is transportation to Anambas.
Transportation to the region is only available via a single flight per week from Tanjung Pinang on a 12-seater aircraft. By plane, it takes 90 minutes to reach Anambas. With a speed boat from Tanjung Pinang, it takes nine hours.
In Anambas, people travel mostly by boat. There are telecommunications problems due to signal limitations. In many locations, there is no signal.
"On the flip side, we can be momentarily detached from the outside world and focus solely on enjoying the beauty of Anambas," said Prambudi, a traveler from Tanjung Pinang.