It was past 4 p.m. local time, but the western coast of Maluku’s Selaru Island was still out of reach. The desire to get to the beach immediately was hindered by a rocky path that was not easy to pass. The beauty of the sunset, as it set to welcome the coming night, did nothing more than tease this insistent desire.
The desire to reach the beach diminished along with the sun’s descent, and its rays were blocked by the coconut trees growing along the path. Increasing speed was not an option. Potholes and rocks checked the speed at no more than 20 kilometers per hour. Then, the most ridiculous thing happened: A scream rose into the dusky sky, asking the universe to hold back the sun. This was crazy!
An hour later, the motorcycle’s wheels escaped the traps of the hellish road to be greeted by a sandy strip. However, it did not mean acceleration was possible. Small mounds of sand and holes overgrown by grass could be traps. However, one thing was certain: the sandy road meant the coast was drawing close.
The motorcycle stopped at a local farm where seaweed was set out to dry. However, the coast still had not appeared, as shrubs more than 2 meters tall obstructed the view. Voices could be heard of seaweed farmers who had just completed their harvests. The scent of seawater was in the air.
Curiosity forced several pairs of feet to jump down from the motorcycle and run between the shrubs. The seaweed farmers were taken aback to see a newcomer jumping for joy. Admiration was greeted by a stretch of white sand extending as though without end. The local people call it Tanimer Beach.
Frets Salakan, a pastor in Selaru, and Intan Fitri, a girl from Palembang, South Sumatera, who both made the journey, took out their gadgets to capture the beautiful moment. Far away, the sun began to set. Descending through a cover of thick clouds for about 30 seconds, the sun emerged again, looking solid.
Centimeter by centimeter, the sun descended, to be greeted by the vast stretch of ocean, ready to swallow it. That moment, sought since 3 p.m. on a 40-kilometer journey from Adaut Port, took less than 5 minutes. A brief but memorable moment that seemed to call out to return to the beach.
"If the sun sets anywhere else, it seems normal, but here it\'s different, because we seem to accompany the sun to the end of the country. Up ahead is the Australian continent," said Frets. The hunt the other charms of the island continued.
Red white touching feeling
The next day enjoyed a bright sun in Eliasa, the southernmost village of the island that is part of Maluku Tenggara Barat regency. Selaru has seven villages, with the other six being Adaut, Kandar, Namtabung, Lingat, Werain, and Fursuy. Adaut port serves as the main sea access for Selaru residents to reach Saumlaki, the regency capital. Eliasa is about 61 kilometers from Adaut.
At the far end of Eliasa stands a 34-meter-tall tower that marks the border. The climb to the top takes 107 steps. Elkana Amarduan, 60, the tower’s caretaker, invited the visitors to climb to the top. A frame of white sand blended into the clear blue sea below. Neat rows of coconut trees could also be seen.
The red-and-white flag fluttering at the top of the tower confirmed pride in the wealth of the archipelago\'s charms. "Indonesia\'s nature is amazing. I\'m proud to have Indonesia," Intan said. The eyes of Elkana, the unsalaried tower guardian, filled with tears. He was touched to see Intan and her friend alternately embracing the flag to take pictures.
Selaru is not only about its natural charms. The local wisdom is well maintained on the island that spans 3,667.86 kilometers. In Eliasa, there is a custom of baking corn and peanuts using sand. Each year, it also holds a traditional fishing event to catch fish using coconut leaves.
Meanwhile, 24 kilometers from Adaut is Kandar, known as an ikat kampong. It seems as if Kandar women are born to become weavers. Weaving is a sign that a girl has attained independence and is ready to have her own family. The Tanimbar ikat, which has become known throughout the word, comes from Kandar.
The island, inhabited by 13,000 people, also holds memories of World War II. In Lingat village, about 30 kilometers from Adaut, is an abandoned 3.5-kilometer airfield that was once used by the Japanese military. There are also caves that were used as a hideout for the Japanese, and remnants of Japanese war vehicles.
Unfortunately, the islands’ regional potential has not been fully utilized. No highway has been built across Selaru. It takes 3 hours to travel a 60-kilometer road. The cost of taking a motorcycle taxi from Adaut to Eliasa is Rp 150,000 per passenger. Never mind the sea access:Only one boat serves the Saumlaki-Selaru sea route every day for a fee of Rp 50,000 per passenger and a travel time of about an hour.
The secretary of the of Maluku Tenggara Barat Regency Tourism Office, Fredrik Futurnanembun, said the tourism potential for Selaru was promising, especially in connection with the Masela gas block, which was now being exploited. The construction of a refinery and the resulting gas by-product industry is expected to drive the local economy, and in turn open tourism prospects.
"We are now preparing infrastructure for Saumlaki-Darwin flights, which are expected to open next year," Fredrik said. Saumlaki is currently reached in a 1-hour, 40-minute flight by an ATR 72 that departs from Ambon. The lowest price for a ticket is Rp 600,000.
Fredrik said that several related ministries supported the plan and were committed to building supporting facilities. Saumlaki’s airport runway will be extended by 2 kilometers to enable wide-body aircraft to land. An immigration office is being built. All are still under way.
However, the most important element is access to tourist destinations. The poor quality of roads needs improving to enable visitors to enjoy the sunset at the end of Selaru Island.