Water Buffalo, Symbol of Toraja’s Greatness

The water buffalo, which is slaughtered in the \'Rambu Solo\' is a symbol of respect and devotion from the family to the deceased.

Kompas/Aloysius Budi Kurniawan

A young man prepares a tedong (water buffalo) to be slaughtered in a Toraja Rambu Solo traditional ceremony held in Nanggala Sangpiak Salu village, Nanggala district, North Toraja. The ceremony has turned into a potential tourist attraction in the province.

The water buffalo, which is slaughtered in the Rambu Solo, a customary ritual in Toraja to let go a family member to eternity, is a symbol of respect and devotion from the family to the deceased.

The war dance performed by three middle-aged men opened the Rambu Solo ritual at a tongkonan (customary house) in Buntao district, North Toraja regency, South Sulawesi, at the end of last December. That day, the ritual was held to let go Siambe Samuel Sampelitak Danduru, known as Nek Uban, to her final resting place. The sounds of drum and flute accompanied the Ma’retteng ritual, a mellow song consisting of grieving poetry, shrouding the area with sacredness and silence. The grieving poetry sounded heartbreaking.

Behind the war dancers were women in customary outfits and the family. They walked slowly, surrounding the yard of the tongkonan complex. After them was the line of Pa’katia (dancers who perform a grieving dance) and long line of To Ma’pairu (those who bring offerings for the guests).

Near the entrance gate to the complex were tens of water buffalo from different regions. There were kerbau bonga (striped skin buffalo), saleko (striped skin with blue or white eyes), pudu’ (black buffalo), lotong boko’ (striped white buffalo with black rear), sokko (a buffalo with its horn pointing downward) and balian (a buffalo that is infertile).

It shows Nek Uban came from a high-income family. Not only was there many species of water buffalo, its high number highlighted the social status of the family that organized the ceremony.

When the march ended, tens of men in green outfits and black sarongs entered and gathered in the middle of the yard. They stood in a circle facing each other and performed Ma’badong. This is a singing ritual without lyrics to the tune of drums and flutes. From the series of events, the slaughtering of the buffalo is the most anticipated ritual.

“This is a form of respect and devotion from the children and family to the parent, who has given birth to and taken care of them. For us, the slaughtered buffalo are a symbol of a vehicle to Puya’s or heaven,” said Alexander Kappa, 60, a member of the family.

KOMPAS/WAWAN H PRABOWO

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Inseparable

The Rambu Solo ceremony and water buffalo are inseparable. There is almost no Rambu Solo ceremony without the slaughtering of water buffalo. That is why in the Rambu Solo ritual, water buffalo are an important component, which brings high costs.

Building the tongkonan and lantang (rooms for family to gather) and to treat mourners is an important part of the ceremony.

In Toraja, the importance of water buffalo in every custom ritual means the price of the animal stands at around tens or hundreds of thousand rupiah each. For particular species like saleko, its price could reach Rp 1 billion.

The number of water buffalo being slaughtered at a ceremony depends on the financial capability of each family. The more the water buffalo being slaughtered, moreover if it is of the saleko, bonga or lotong boko species, the ceremony will cost more. Not all the water buffalo are prepared by the host. Some of them are prepared by family members.

A Toraja community leader, Petrus Pasulu, said not all water buffalo brought for the ceremony were slaughtered and consumed. “Some of them are donated to the house of worship, community groups or custom community. Some are also put aside for the repair of bridges, roads and other public facilities,” said the chairman of Museum Ne’ Gandeng Foundation.

Likewise, Suleman Miting, a community leader in Lembang Rinding Batu whose area includes Tongkonan Belo Langi’ in Kesu’ district, Rantepao, North Toraja, said in Toraja many roads in the village were repaired using water buffalo donations during the Rambu Solo event. Those roads are known as custom roads.

“In Rambu Solo, there is mutual cooperation and kinship. Only Rambu Solo can bring together family members from all regions, home or overseas. Rambu Solo can also transform land into concrete road. It must be remembered that the spending on Rambu Solo is never taken from the budget for other important purposes such as school fees,” Suleman said.

KOMPAS/WAWAN H PRABOWO

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Value of water buffalo

The water buffalo used in Rambu Solo or other rituals are inseparable from the presence of the animal, which has long been known in Toraja.

“Since a long time ago, only water buffalo existed in Toraja. Water buffalo are used in many aspects of life, from cultivating land, wedding ceremonies to funerals. The flesh is consumed and its skin and horn are also useful,” Petrus said.

The importance of water buffalo for Toraja people also means the animal’s picture is engraved in the carving of the tongkonan house, barn and woven clothes. Beside, Suleman said, some Toraja people also calculate their money or wealth by using the value of water buffalo.

“If they sell goods or agricultural products, for example, they will calculate how many buffalo they will get. For Toraja people, their real money is the water buffalo,” he said. It is not surprising for water buffalo owners, if they get a calf of the bonga or saleko species, to feel that it is a blessing. They feel they are becoming a person of choice. “Not all water buffalo being bred will give birth to the striped skin. That is why if the owner gets the striped skin calf, it is like being chosen. Not all people will get that gift,” said Edi Panggalo, owner of Istana Saleko in Ke’te Kesu, Ratepao.