Kerinci People’s Bond with Nature

KOMPAS/IWAN SETIYAWAN

Locals gather at the home of elderly Rustam in Jujun village, Keliling Danau district, Kerinci regency, Jambi, on Friday (19/1/2018). Thekawa coffee drink, made by steeping dried coffee leaves, is always served.

The Kerinci people in Jambi still practice the ngubat tradition, a ritual of inviting ancestral spirits. The ngubat ritual is inseparable from their strong relationship with their ancestors and the environment.

In mid-January 2018, Rustam, 64, had his living room flooded with guests. After 8 p.m., his neighbors and other villagers started coming to his house in Jujun village, Keliling Danau district, Kerinci regency, Jambi.

Rustam’s wife prepared a hot beverage from boiled coffee leaves. The locals called the drink kawa (coffee leaf) water. The hot kawa was served in a carved bamboo tube. Beside it was a pile of coconut shells. Locals poured the kawa water from the bamboo tube into the coconut shell and drank it. Amid the cold air on the Kerinci highlands, the drink warmed and refreshed the body.

Not all of the visitors wished to seek traditional treatments. Some came to witness the spirit-calling ritual that was part of the treatment. They call the ritual “ngubat”.

The ngubat procession began with a communication between the shaman and the ancestral spirits. The shaman prepared an offering of gambier, incense and soil. Beside them was a cauldron encircled with a weaving thread. Two rings were attached to the thread. One was silver-colored and the other bronze and hexagonal. It is believed that the items help to communicate and strengthen the bond with ancestral spirits.

Rustam’s hands were directed to the part of his patient’s body where a disease is located. During the procession, no other voice was heard but that of the shaman.

The patient, Sofian, 40, sat with Rustam. Rustam then began his traditional chant. He spoke fast and it was difficult to understand him. Then, he said, “Berkat langait berkat bumoy/Bukeaklah pintaunya/hilanglah penyakitnya/Berkat niniek berkat sakti niniek/Angkeatlah penyakitnya.” It broke the silence.

The mantra means, “Blessings of the sky, blessings of the earth/Open the doors/let the disease disappear/Blessings of the ancestors, blessings of the holy ancestors/Lift up the disease.” Rustam had his eyes closed. Several moments later, he took a handful of chalk, three limes and two leaves.

The limes were sliced into halves and smeared with the chalk. The leaves were burnt and crushed. All the ingredients were mixed and daubed on the part of Sofian’s body that felt painful. “Daub this periodically for three days and we’ll see what happens,” Rustam said.

Sofian asked for Rustam’s help after he felt a persistent sore on the left side of his abdomen. He had a kidney stone removed just two months ago. “When it is cold at night, it will be even more painful,” Sofian said.

Despite having received modern medical treatment, many locals still consult traditional shamans to harmonize their bodies with the natural environment.

Strong connection

The ngubat ritual is inseparable from the strong connection between the Kerinci people and their ancestors and the natural environment. Locals living around Lake Kerinci in Kerinci regency, Jambi, are the caretakers of an ancient Malay civilization.

Despite the strong influence of Islamic teachings on local cultures since the early 18^th century, their connection to their ancestors has never dissipated. In 1707, the Sultan of Jambi wrote a letter to Depati Sanggaran Agung in Kerinci. In the letter, the Sultan ordered the Depati to no longer hold dances and ceremonies in worship of ancient gods, as well as all other activities that violated Islamic teachings. The letter shows that local beliefs remained alive even after Islam had taken root in Kerinci.

Archeological research by the Southern Sumatra Archeological Center has found a number of artefacts revealing local belief in supreme supernatural beings residing in the mountains. A research study led by local archeologist Tri Marhaeni was conducted in 2007.

Research around Lake Kerinci found a number of prehistoric artefacts such as burial jars. Offerings put in the burial jars were evidence that locals believed in an afterlife.

In order to maintain a connection with their spirits, the Kerinci people have a number of rituals, including ngubat. Other rituals also include communication with nature, such as traditional sko feasts, sacred parties and traditional dances in the asyeik ceremony.

KOMPAS/IWAN SETIYAWAN

Rustam (right) prepares for a traditional healing ritual on Sofian (front left) in his home in Jujun village, Keliling Danau district, Kerinci regency, Jambi, on Friday (19/1/2018).

Assimilating

Kerinci culture caretaker Ali Surakhman said that both ngubat and asyeik were the Kerinci people’s way of maintaining a relationship with nature. He said that, in the asyeik ceremony, locals provided offerings in the form of crops. Shamans chant mantras and dance magical dances with a simplistic and repetitive musical accompaniment.

“Throughout the procession, the shamans will present the offerings and pray for safety and bountiful harvests,” Ali said.

As the times changed and Islam spread through Kerinci, the customary rituals assimilated with Islamic traditions. Shamans, for instance, now begin their rituals by saying “Bismillah” (“In the name of Allah”). Regardless, customary processions mark locals’ strong awareness to protect their harmony with nature. Locals believe that, by protecting this balance and harmony, their life will be protected from harm.

Today, a number of verbal traditions involving communication with the supernatural realms are being used to boost tourism. At the annual Lake Kerinci Festival, there are always magical dances. These processions attract many tourists.