Weaving, the Road to Independence

KOMPAS/VIDELIS JEMALI

Rangge weaves a length of Mamasa textile, known for its bright red color, on Thursday (22/3/2018) in Balla Satanatean village, Balla district, Mamasa regency, West Sulawesi. The weavers were not always able to produce a length of fabric every month because of their limited capital for buying materials and equipment. With the help of Pekka and its savings and loan facility, they are able to continue production.

The women in Mamasa, West Sulawesi, who are the backbones of their families, can now feel at heart’s ease. Facilitated by Pekka and Toraja Melo, their hand-woven textiles have attracted the market. This means their source of income is guaranteed.

Around 30 women walked onto a stage about a meter high. They walked slowly as if they were professional models. Flashing smiles, they displayed textiles, mostly hand-woven with red thread, combined with white long-sleeved blouses. The textiles are their own creation.

On the stage, the women formed a long line and turned toward the audience. Then, in pairs, they left the stage and walked on into the center of the hall, waving their hands at the audience. The audience responded with cheers.

Those women displayed their own creations, the handmade textiles, on Wednesday (21/3/2018) in Balla Satanatean of Balla district, Mamasa regency, West Sumatra.

Balla Satanatean village is 30 kilometers from Mamasa, the capital of Mamasa regency. More than half of the road to Mamasa, which is located in the hills, is unpaved. For better mobility, the local residents walk on foot. They depend on the rice fields in the valley and plantations on the mountain slopes.

The “models” performing on the stage represent the 337 women grouped in the women’s empowerment program for household heads in eight villages in Balla district and Mamasa. The program was organized since three years ago by the Female Family Heads (Pekka) non-government organization.

In Mamasa, Pekka works with Toraja Melo, a producer of hand-woven Toraja textiles. Toraja Melo, a community group that promotes Toraja textiles, had worked with the Mamasa women for two years before Pekka’s arrival.

Female household heads refer to women who have become breadwinners of their families because their husbands have died or are ill, or they are divorced.

Mamasa hand-woven textiles are known for their bright red color. The textile is a little stiff because the local weavers use polyester thread. Thank to the cooperation with Toraja Melo, the weavers were introduced to softer designs. The bright red is combined with white and yellow stripes at the edges of the textile, like the ones the women displayed during the show.

Rangge, 55, a resident of Balla Satanatean village and one of the 337 women involved in the program, was proud to display her hand-woven textile. “I am a weaver and this is the first time I became a model,” she said.

Backbones

Rangge is a single mother to two children. One child is studying at a vocational school and the other dropped out of school. Her husband has been long abandoning, his family.

Before she started working with Toraja Melo and Pekka, Rangge did not weave every day because she lacked capital. To produce a length of textile, she needs nine boxes of threads that cost Rp 150,000. “I do not always have that much money every month,” she said.

After joining Toraja Melo and Pekka, Rangge is able to produce one length of textile every month, which she sells for Rp 400,000-Rp 450,000 each.

The cooperation with Toraja Melo comes in two forms. First, Toraja Melo provides cotton thread that are softer than polyester, along with the design. The finished textile belongs to Toraja Melo. Rangge and the weavers are paid Rp 200,000 for each length of textile they produce.

Second, the weavers buy the thread and Toraja Melo suggests the design. The weaver sells the finished textile at the city center or the Mamasa market.

To help sustain their occupation, Pekka has set up a savings and loan facility. The weaver can borrow money from the group at 1 percent interest per month.

For Rangge, buying the weaving equipment has become easier thanks to the savings and loan facility. Each month, she can produce textiles at a profit of Rp 200,000 per piece. “This is helpful to fulfill daily needs and to pay the school fees for my child,” she said.

Supporting her youngest child to pursue university education is not impossible now, because of weaving.

Meanwhile, Aruan Bamba, 62, a resident of Balla Barat village, said she could now lead a life of ease at her old age. Joining Pekka in December 2017, she could not weave at the beginning. But she learned quickly and produced two lengths of textile. The money she makes from selling textiles means a lot to her, because her husband cannot work anymore after suffering a stroke.

“Besides earning money from chicken farming, I can earn extra money from weaving,” said Aruan, who still supports a child. Her two other children are married.

KOMPAS/VIDELIS JEMALI

Mamasa weavers present an ensemble paired with the local textile, known for its bright red color, on Thursday (22/3/2018) in Balla Satanatean village, Balla district, Mamasa regency, West Sulawesi. The weavers, who are all female heads of household, have been empowered to continue production and make an income through Pekka and Toraja Melo, a local community initiative.

Touch of design

Toraja Melo director Dinny Jusuf said the challenge in marketing the Mamasa textile was mostly due to their monotonous red color. Improving the design wais a solution for attracting consumers.

From the textile the Mamasa women make, Toraja Melo produces derivative products such as dresses, ties and bags.

Thanks to the modified designs, last year, the Bank DBS Indonesia board of directors became interested in the clothing created from hand-woven Mamasa textiles. “We work hard to produce textiles the market prefers. The Mamasa women can do that,” said Dinny.

Pekka director Nani Zulminarni said weaving was an entry point to empowering female household heads in Mamasa. Weaving could potentially be developed into an economic power.

In order to sustain weaving, the local women needed to be consolidated through setting up the savings and loan facility, leadership advocacy and enhancing access to resources.

“We see that the women here work very hard to make an income. That is a big capital to enhance the economy and community,” said Nani.