Changing of the Guard at Yogyakarta’s Pakualaman Palace

KOMPAS/NINO CITRA ANUGRAHANTO

Bregada Lombok Abang soldiers prepare to march around Pura Pakualaman, Yogyakarta City, Saturday (22/9/2018). The parade was carried out after a ceremony for the replacement of soldiers on duty at Pura Pakualaman. On that day, the Lombok Abang Bregada, wearing red uniforms, replaced the Bregada Plangkir, wearing black.

You do not have to travel to faraway London to watch a changing of the guard. The Pakualman duchy in Yogyakarta has routinely performed a changing of the guard, complete with cultural attractions for years.

The sounds of seruling (a traditional bamboo flute) accompanied the beating of drums and gongs played by the Lombok Abang bregada (brigade). The medium-tempo repetitive music accompanied the palace guards with red uniforms and wooden spears as they walked stiffly in a line into the Pakualaman palace’s yard. They immediately formed lines on the west side of the yard.

Behind them, the Plangkir bregada, wearing black and bearing rifles, followed. They were accompanied by the sound of drum beaten by the bregada in front of them.

The two bregada constitute Pakualaman duchy’s “battle force”. They were about to take part in the changing of the guard held at the Pakualaman Palace in Yogyakarta.

The changing of the guard is held every 35 days, depending on the weton or commemoration of the ruling duke (adipati) of Pakualam. Currently, the changing of the guard takes place every kliwon Saturday, in line with the weton of Kanjeng Gusti Pangeran Adipati Arya Paku Alam X.

“This is is accordance to the weton cycle in Javanese culture. Birthday’s are commemorated every 35 days in line with a person’s weton. In this case, the weton is set to that of Sri Paduka [His Roya Highness] Paku Alam X,” Kanjeng Pangeran Haryo Kusumo Parastho from the Pakualaman duchy said recently in Yogyakarta.

Recently, Manggala Yudha RM Triatmojo Kusumo served as the ceremony’s inspector. The manggala yudha is the palace’s military commander. The ceremony began at 3 p.m, as the Plangkir bregada sounded the trumpets. All bregada were at the ready to greet the manggala yudha.

Four members of the Lombok Abang bregada were at the manggala yudha at the Bangsal Sewatama, a large, roofed platform in front of the Pakualaman Palace. The manggala yudha walked towards the parade ground with a sword in his hand. His large and strapping stature contributed to his sense of authority.

As he arrived on the parade ground, the bregada saluted him as their commander. Afterwards, the ceremony continued with the changing of the flag from that of the Plangkir bregada to that of the Lombok Abang. Symbolically, this signified that the Lombok Abang would replace the Plangkir to guard the palace for the next 35 days.

The bregada recited their vows as soldiers of the Pakualaman duchy under the manggala yudha’s leadership. They swore to be loyal and devoted to the duchy.

The ceremony ended with a parade around the palace. Visitors, including local and international tourists, enthusiastically awaited it. They watched the whole changing of the guard from the other side of the palace’s iron fence.

Kusumo said the changing of the guard was an old palace tradition. However, five years ago, the routine was repackaged to become a tourist attraction.

“It’s not that long ago that we started doing it. Before, when we changed the guards, we just changed them. It was just ceremonial,” he added.

KOMPAS/NINO CITRA ANUGRAHANTO

The commander of a ceremony for the replacement of soldiers on duty is in command at Pura Pakualaman, Yogyakarta City, Saturday (22/9/2018). On that day, soldiers of the Lombok Abang Bregada (in red uniforms) replaced the Bregada Plangkir (in black).

Kusumo said the changing of the guard was inspired the similar attraction at Buckingham Palace in London. There, the attraction is hugely popular among tourists.

“In England, the changing of the guard is a major tourist attraction. With a similar routine, why can’t we repackage our ceremony to also attract tourists? The goal is the same, namely to attract tourists to our palace,” Kusumo explained.

Historically, the Pakualaman duchy has a strong link to England. The duchy was established in 1813 during the British occupation of Java under Sir Stamford Raffles.

Paku Alam’s commitment

Kusumo said the Pakualaman duchy had little historical artifacts, especially when compared to the Yogyakarta sultanate. Therefore, cultural attractions were among the few ways available to attract tourists.

This was Paku Alam X’s commitment as the preserver of Javanese culture. In an interview with Kompas on Jan. 5, 2016, he said he would focus on culture, including by reviving traditional arts and cultural performances that people often neglected.

The changing of the guards, for instance, also comprises traditional arts performances such as the jathilan and traditional dances.

“We involve the jathilan group to boost their artistic spirit. So, this is also about cultural preservation. These groups do not have many spaces to perform. They have to wait for invitations to perform,” Kusumo said.

KOMPAS/NINO CITRA ANUGRAHANTO

Bregada Lombok Abang soldiers, wearing red uniforms, prepare to replace soldiers on duty at a ceremony at Pura Pakualaman, Yogyakarta City, Saturday (22/9/2018). The ceremony was partly carried out in order to attract visitors to the palace.

The bregada serves more as friendly guards of the duchy. Guard Mas Ngabei Wirajati, 67, for instance, wears a Peranakan cloth combined with a Javanese blangkon (headwear) and jarit (long cloth for the lower body), while on duty. He looked at passersby, one by one.

Whenever one stepped into his guard post, he greeted them politely. “Do you need any assistance?” he often asked with a smile. If the visitor wishes to tour the Pakualaman Palace, he will tell them to write their names in the guest book first.

Wirajati is a member of the Plangkir bregada. He said that, nowadays, the bregada were no longer on the frontlines in battle. Instead, they are on the frontline to receive guests and tourists.

Duchy guard coordinator Mas Riyo Wirapraja confirmed this. He said that, nowadays, soldiers wore their uniforms only on certain days, such as on cultural holidays and parades.

Lombok Abang bregada commander Mas Wedono Wirohandoyo, 71, said guards were on duty for two or three times a week, from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. While on duty, guards must ensure that no tourists are trespassing into forbidden areas or vandalizing the museum’s collection.