Preserving Roots of Tradition through Ramadan Rites

KOMPAS/ADI SUCIPTO

Residents of Gumeno village in Manyar district, Gresik regency, East Java, prepare chicken soup to break-the-fast on Monday, May 27, 2019. The tradition of eating chicken soup to break-the-fast has continued for 494 years. Children, teenagers and adults have their own roles in cooking the chicken, preparing sticky rice and weighing the portions before they are given to people in the surrounding areas.

In many parts of the archipelago, interaction between Islam and local customs led to various meaningful traditions for locals. The tumbilotohe tradition of Gorontalo and sanggringan of Gresik are not only about preserving the roots of traditions but also about glorifying religious teachings.

In Manado, North Sulawesi, locals of Gorontalo descent have a tradition of lighting up candles for three days ahead of Idul Fitri. Tumbilotohe literally means “lighting up candles”.

On Monday (3/6/2019) evening, for instance, the house yards in Ketang Baru hamlet, Singkil, Manado, were adorned with small candles. For three days, the candlelight was preserved to greet the day of victory, Idul Fitri.

Ahmad Abdulsamad, 65, of Ketang Baru Lingkungan V neighborhood, lit six candles on his veranda. “This symbolizes my family members. I live here with my wife, our two children and two grandchildren,” Ahmad said.

Ahmad was born in Gorontalo. Together with his parents, he moved to Manado when he was 15. Until now, he still holds the tradition of his home province of Gorontalo close to his heart.

“I do not really know who began the tradition. All I know is that, three days ahead of Lebaran [Idul Fitri], I always light up candles,” Ahmad said.

Four houses away from Ahmad’s, Zainuddin Husain, 42, also lit up several candles. Born and raised in Manado, Zainuddin has never lived in Gorontalo. However, he still strives to maintain his ancestral tradition.

Manado Islamic Holiday Management chief Amir Liputo said that the tradition began in the 16^th century, when Islam was first brought to Gorontalo by traders from Gowa, Makassar, Tidore and Ternate.

“At first, we used dammar wood and coconut leaves called woka. When they are lit up, they emit a beautiful smell,” he said.

Amir said that the tumbilotohe tradition also aimed to light up streets towards mosques for the Gorontalo people who could not enjoy electricity in the old times.

KOMPAS/ADI SUCIPTO

Residents of Gumeno village in Manyar district, Gresik regency, East Java, prepare chicken soup to break-the-fast on Monday, May 27, 2019. The tradition of eating chicken soup to break-the-fast has continued for 494 years.

Sanggringan

In Gumeno village, Gresik, East Java, the sanggringan tradition has been a Ramadan mainstay for centuries. In the last 494 years, a fast breaking tradition with the kolak ayam dish was held annually on the 23^rd night of Ramadan.

On Monday (27/5), locals were busily preparing sanggringan at the Sunan Dalem Grand Mosque in Manyar district, Gresik regency, East Java. Children, teenagers and adults busily prepared kolak ayam. The preparation began on the 21^st day of Ramadan.

This year, 234 chicken were slaughtered. The organizing committee also prepared 700 kilograms of brown sugar, 330 kilograms of leek, 45 kilograms of cumin and 800 coconuts. The dish was served for communal eating during the breaking of the fast (iftar).

The sanggringan tradition gathered people from several regions. Rich and poor, state officials and common people, everyone gathered around together. Everyone enjoys the same dish: kolak ayam.

Sunan Dalem

The sanggringan tradition dates back to the days of Sunan Dalem, the son of Sunan Giri, who spread Islam in Gumeno. Sanggring means “sickly king”, and is derived from sang meaning king and gring meaning sickly.

As the tale goes, Sunan Dalem was sick. Medicines from various places were given to him and he remained sick. He then dreamt of kolak ayam as medicine.

After the kolak ayam was cooked, Sunan Dalem requested that glutinous rice be mixed into it. It was then eaten together during the breaking of the fast on the 23^rd dusk of Ramadan. Sunan Dalem was then cured.

In another version of the story, Didik Wahyudi, writer of History of Sunan Dalem Mosque’s Construction: Tradition of Kolak Ayam in Gumeno Village, cited that the first kolak ayam was cooked on 22 Ramadan 946 H, coinciding with January 31, 1540 CE.

KOMPAS/ADI SUCIPTO

Young people participate in the 494-year-old tradition of breaking-the-fast by preparing chicken soup in Gumeno village, Manyar district, Gresik regency, East Java, on Monday, May 27, 2019.

Sunan Dalem then said that a sanggring be held on every 23^rd night of Ramadan. The tradition is preserved until today and it gathers people from various backgrounds for a breaking-of-the-fast event.

Sunan Dalem also asked kolak ayam as a traditional medicine to recover locals’ strength after constructing a pool on the eastern side of the mosque. The chicken is sliced so that it is enough for everyone.

The name kolak ayam is derived from the words kholakul ayyam, meaning “searching for days”. Sunan Dalem searched for a proper name for the dish for days and he could not find one. Then, the name kolak ayam was used.

The tales, inherited through generations, have a message that people must eat halal and healthy meals to strengthen their bodies. Most importantly, the tradition fosters togetherness, mutual assistance and mutual caring.

Strengthening

Gadjah Mada University professor of anthropology Heddy Shri Ahimsa-Putra said that Islam strengthens locals traditions, instead of eliminating them, when it first spread to the archipelago.

“Some experts believe that Islam in Indonesia rejuvenates existing traditions,” he said.

Heddy said that the various local traditions did not reduce the sanctity of Ramadan and Idul Fitri as they do not contradict Islamic teachings.

With traditions, religion does not lose its spirit. Instead, it grows stronger in the hearts of its adherents.

(ADI SUCIPTO KISSWARA/HARIS FIRDAUS)