Waiting for Megamendung to be Bright Again
History keeps repeating itself. The good times of megamendung motif batik can be repeated.
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Megamendung, a batik icon typical of Cirebon, West Java, has passed from time to time time until it succeeded in gaining world recognition. Even though it is being hit by a pandemic, Megamendung continues to survive so that its reputation as an icon of Cirebon does not fade
The batik center in Panembahan Village, Plered District, Cirebon, appeared deserted on Saturday (30/3/2024) afternoon. Only a few motorcycles, public transportation vehicles, and pedicabs passed by. The parking lots of several batik shops also appeared empty. However, that day was a long weekend holiday.
At the EB Traditional Batik shop in Cirebon, there were only two visitors who came within an hour. The employees seemed to be busy folding cloth. "Indeed, it's not as crowded as before the pandemic," said Nurniati, the production supervisor at EB Batik.
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The Covid-19 pandemic has hit the batik industry in the region. Nia, also known as Nurniati, did not mention a decrease in the number of visitors or sales figures, but the group of tourists who used to visit Cirebon and come to batik shops is not as frequent as before. This includes the period before Eid al-Fitr, when people shop for traditional clothing. "During Eid al-Fitr, the crowd is usually on the day before because people are looking for (batik fabric) as souvenirs," she said.
For Nia, the situation is saddening because their efforts to attract consumers seem to have reached their maximum potential. EB Batik not only offers hand-drawn and stamped batik cloth with various patterns, but also displays the latest models of batik gamis, blouses, and outerwear for Eid.
Innovations combining the iconic megamendung with other motifs were also carried out. “Interest in megamendung has fallen. The buyer said, (the motive) is it's already on the market, already many have it. "That's why we tried combining it with other motifs," said Nia.
She showcased examples of batik motifs, such as the megamendung combined with the parang liris motif, the keraton motif resembling the dragon carriage of the naga liman, as well as the typical red background Chinese motif called angkin. Its shape resembles a keychain. The batik colors are not always bright. "Cirebon is known for its bright colors, but there are also sogan colors (brown and others). There are influences from the palace and China," said Nia.
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They are serious about implementing quality control. Before making batik fabric, artisans are required to pay attention to the design printed from the computer. They have a report containing codes, time, and production targets, complete with a supervisor's signature. Every month, artisans can produce at least two hand-drawn batik fabrics.
Adaptation can also be seen in the choice of fabric material. Craftsmen also make patterned fabric so that it is easier for customers to sew it into shirts. Starting this year, every cloth sold at EB Batik also has a bar code (barcode). By scanning the code, visitors are immediately connected to an Instagram account which displays various finished products made from batik cloth, ranging from shirts, t-shirts, to jackets.
”This is because customers always ask if this fabric is made into a shirt, how? "With this barcode, we provide the appearance," said Nia.
Like mushrooms
EB Batik is one of the many batik brands in Cirebon that flourished like mushrooms in the rainy season since UNESCO designated batik as a cultural heritage of Indonesia on October 2, 2009. This includes Cirebon Batik, with its iconic megamendung motif.
Since UNESCO's recognition, the batik center in remote Trusmi Village has been flooded with orders, roaming the stages of fashion shows and prestigious exhibitions. In 2012, megamendung appeared on the front page of the book Batik Design by Pepin van Roojen (Netherland). This motif was also used by British designer, Julien Macdonald, for his spring collection.
The recognition of Cirebon batik continues to increase. The popularity of EB Batik can also be seen from various photos of visits from members of the DPR, ministers, and even presidents displayed on EB Batik's walls. There are photos of the Second President of Indonesia Soeharto, the Fifth President of Indonesia Megawati Soekarnoputri, and the Sixth President of Indonesia Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono or SBY. "Mr. SBY visited here almost three or four times. During his time, batik was very popular. Now, not so much," said Nia.
Megawati Soekarnoputri even included a message displayed in a frame on the wall of EB Batik. "No other country can match the art of batik. Therefore, preserve this 'batik' culture," wrote Megawati on February 20, 2013.
In Trusmi, some batik shop owners generally still have family relationships. For example, EB Batik still has a familial relationship with Batik Asofa. Meanwhile, Batik Asofa is still related to the founders of BT Batik Trusmi and Batik Salma.
Each has its own characteristics. BT Batik Trusmi carries the concept of one stop shopping. Visitors can not only shop for batik, but also buy souvenirs and eat empal gentong. Likewise, Batik Salma provides souvenirs with various types of crackers, empal gentong, and clothes typical of the movie Barbie which have nothing to do with batik. If you want to buy batik, visitors can take the escalator to the second floor.
In 2015, the Cirebon Regency government built the Trusmi Batik Market integrated with a place to eat Empal Gentong. Although not as crowded as batik shops like BT, this area could be a choice. At the same time, other batik businesses emerged.
The presence of infrastructure, such as the Cikopo-Palimanan Toll Road (Cipali), in mid-2015 also triggered change. This toll road cuts the distance from Jakarta to Cirebon by up to 40 km if taken through the northern coast. This road reduces the previously 5-hour journey to only three hours.
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The support of infrastructure also contributes to the proliferation of batik businesses. The Central Statistics Agency of Cirebon District recorded 565 batik businesses in 2015. The following year, the number jumped to 593. Some batik shops have also expanded their locations.
The Head of the Bank Indonesia Representative Office (KPwBI) in Cirebon, Anton Pitono, said that Cirebon's location is strategic because it is located between West Java and Central Java. Double railway tracks, toll roads, and arterial roads also pass through this area. There are at least five toll gates leading to Cirebon.
With the Cileunyi-Sumedang-Dawuan toll road, the travel time from Bandung to Cirebon is now only 2.5 hours. The travel time by train from Jakarta to Cirebon takes about 3 hours. There is also the Kertajati West Java International Airport in Majalengka Regency, which is about a 45-minute drive from Cirebon.
"If you look at Cirebon, it's complete. It's called 'City of Guardians', there is religious tourism. There are also culinary, fashion (batik) and outdoor tours. "There is also a lot of access to Cirebon," said Anton.
Fading
Unfortunately, the popularity of Cirebon batik has to be dimmed due to the blow of the pandemic. The Chairman of the Indonesian Batik Artisans and Entrepreneurs Association (APPBI), Komarudin Kudiya, revealed on Tuesday (23/4/2024), that batik marketing is now becoming quieter. Not only in Cirebon, other batik centers such as Pekalongan are also experiencing similar things.
"After the pandemic, almost 10-20 showrooms closed. Batik craftsmen fell 50 percent from around 131,568 craftsmen. "Now, even if it has risen again, it is still below 75 percent of the initial condition," he said.
Ananti Sofa, the owner of Batik Asofa, suspects that there is a saturation towards batik, especially when the megamendung motif exploded during SBY's reign. "So, batik has become ordinary," said Sofa, who has been trading batik for 20 years.
Like EB Batik, Batik Asofa continues to strive for breakthroughs. One of them, taking batik from Pekalongan. Currently, Sofa only sells around 100 pieces of batik cloth on weekends. Before the pandemic he could sell up to 300 pieces of batik cloth. It was so busy that the clothes in the shop were left in a mess because buyers had taken them apart.
"In the past, if there was a celebrity wearing batik, it would be crowded. The same goes for officials who wear batik a lot. Now, it's not like that," he said.
To stay afloat, Sofa chose to pivot and focus on the local market with cloth prices ranging from tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of rupiah. The most sought-after products are school uniforms, teacher uniforms, office employee attire, or "troop" uniforms for celebrations.
In Indramayu, (the typical motif) is mango. In Cirebon, there is Megamendung, right, it's already national.
Ulfa Masduki (50), a resident of Sukagumiwang District, Indramayu Regency, for example, was willing to ride a motorcycle about 40 kilometers with her child to search for uniform materials at Batik Asofa. She bought 21 batik cloths for her child's uniform, who will get married in June.
Indramayu, according to Ulfa, does indeed have a batik center in the Paoman region. However, she prefers Trusmi because of its diverse choices. "If in Indramayu, the typical motif is mango. If in Cirebon, there is Megamendung, which is already national," she said.
In contrast to the bleak situation of batik, the economy of Cirebon has resumed its growth post-pandemic. Restaurants, hotels, and malls are also thriving, particularly in the city of Cirebon.
The growth of the regional economy has attracted the interest of multinational companies in the fashion sector. The brands Hennes and Mauritz (H&M) from Sweden and Uniqlo from Japan, for example, can be found at the Cirebon Super Blok (CSB) Cirebon Mall.
Uniqlo has just started operating at the end of March. When it opened on Friday (29/3/2024), which coincided with a long holiday, visitors crowded the mall. Some restaurants also became crowded. The streets were congested.
The encouraging economic growth is the foundation for the megamendung batik motif to succeed once again. At least, Uniqlo can be an initial proof that the desire for shopping among the community is not entirely dead. Perhaps the fundamental issue that needs to be examined is the marketing strategy, especially in how to call back customers to flock in and buy the megamendung batik motif.
History keeps repeating itself. The good times of megamendung motif batik can be repeated.