Contemporary Civilization in the Sites of Yogyakartans Kings

KOMPAS/FERGANATA INDRA RIATMOKO

Visitors walk the grounds of the Warungboto Site on Tuesday (3/9/2019) in Umbulharjo district, Yogyakarta. The historical structure, which was built in 1877, is a popular destination among young tourists.

After years of neglect, the historical sites of Yogyakarta Palace have been transformed into tourism destinations and contemporary public spaces.

The scorching heat of the sun on Saturday (31/8/2019) did not dissuade Andy Fahrozi, 34, from looking for selfie spots at the royal baths of the Warungboto Site in Yogyakarta. He struck several poses as his wife snapped the photos.

“Come on, take the photo while it’s empty,” Andy said. Afterwards, the couple explored the historical site.

It was his first visit to the Warungboto Site, which was built in 1785. “It is good. I am satisfied with the photos,” said Andy, who hails from Pemalang, Central Java.

Although he attended a local university from 2005 to 2010, Andy only recently learned about Warungboto. The cultural heritage site is the former retreat of the Yogyakarta sultan and is located in Warungboto subdistrict of Umbulharjo district, a mere kilometer from Andy’s alma mater.

Dozens of students from SMAN 1 Mungkid high school in Magelang, regency, Central Java, were visiting Warungboto that same morning, taking yearbook photographs. “We learned about this place from the internet. It looked interesting, so we chose it for our yearbook,” said 17-year-old Rafsanzani.

The Warungboto Site is part of the Rejowinangun Retreat, and was built by Sultan Hamengku Buwono II while he was still the crown prince. The 2,750-square-meter structure was in an alarming condition several years ago, with many buildings showing signs of severe deterioration and others mere rubble. The condition worsened after the 2006 earthquake.

KOMPAS/FERGANATA INDRA RIATMOKO

Visitors wander the halls of the Warungboto Site on Tuesday (3/9/2019) in Umbulharjo district, Yogyakarta. The historical structure, which was built in 1877, is a popular destination among young tourists.

Many people, even native Yogyakartans, did not care about the Warungboto Site, even though it stood right beside a road. “This place used to be dilapidated and spooky,” said Yogyakartan Ayu Palupi, 38, who was also visiting Warungboto for the first time.

The situation changed when the Yogyakarta Cultural Heritage Preservation Office restored the site in 2009 and again in 2015-2016. After the restoration was finished, visitors could finally appreciate the relatively intact and Instagrammable structures that stood on the site. The once-faded floors and walls now shine with exotic colors.

Today, Warungboto is a tourism magnet, particularly among Instagrammers. Its popularity grew even more after First Daughter Kahiyang Ayu chose the site as the location of her pre-wedding photo shoot in 2017.Tamansari

The Warungboto restoration project followed the 2004 restoration of Tamansari, another royal retreat of the Yogyakarta Sultanate that had been crumbling. The royal bathing complex, built in 1758-1765, was once listed on UNESCO’s 100 most threatened world heritage sites.

I was surprised when I went there with my wife and children last year. The site was so beautiful and clean. It used to be abandoned, so [high] school students used to go there on dates.

Jakarta craftsman Ridwan, 39, who attended university in Yogyakarta in 2002, said that local residents had used the areas near Sumur Gumuling and Pulo Cemeti in the complex for gambling and cockfighting.

“I was surprised when I went there with my wife and children last year. The site was so beautiful and clean. It used to be abandoned, so [high] school students used to go there on dates,” he said.

Tamansari, which was built during the reign of Sultan Hamengku Buwono I, regained its beauty through careful restoration. The royal bathing and garden complex, which originally spanned 10 hectares and contained 57 structures, is now crowded with visitors on the weekend.

The Alun-alun Utara (North Square) of Yogyakarta Palace was also restored to its former glory. Years ago, the square was nothing more than a parking lot for tour buses, bustling with street vendors, roadside stalls and even homeless people.

In 2014, the Yogyakarta administration began a sweeping restoration and revitalization project that reorganized the vendors, repaired the sidewalks and banned all tour buses from the historical site. The project also restored several historical pendopo (gazebos) surrounding the square, which were used as the “royal boxes” for palace guests as they watched performances in the square.

The North Square is again beautiful. It has been transformed into a vibrant hub of culinary tourism whose pulse echoes deep into the night. The gazebos are now contemporary cafes that offer Wi-Fi service.

Data from Statistics Indonesia shows that 4.53 million domestic tourists and 219,332 foreign tourists visited Yogyakarta in 2018, and the province has targeted a 5 percent increase in visitor arrivals for 2019.

Yogyakarta Palace and surrounding historical sites have been revived as public spaces and tourism destinations that transcend history, preserving the local cultural heritage while creating new economic opportunities. (GRE)