Cirebon’s Coastal Dreams

KOMPAS/ABDULLAH FIKRI ASHRI

The West Java Provincial Government launched the Cirebon Tourism on Bus or Citros tourism bus at Keraton Kasepuhan, Cirebon City, West Java, Saturday (02/23/2019). The tour bus will surround a number of tourist destinations such as the Tomb of Sunan Gunung Jati, Keraton Kasepuhan, the Old Town area to the Trusmi Batik area.

Sunan Gunung Jati’s legacies live on, including appreciation of diversity. Nevertheless, Cirebon is still struggling to restore its glory.

Suljani, 60, found shelter from the scorching sun as he entered the small alley at Jagabayan Mosque in community unit (RW) 009, Panjunan, in the coastal city of Cirebon, West Java. The mosque, established more than 500 years ago, is a marker of Panjunan’s Islamic civilization.

The mosque, which was built by Prince Jagabayan, used to be the northern border of Dalem Agung Pakungwati, an early palace of the Cirebon Sultanate. Now, located amid shops, supermarkets and malls, the mosque remains popular among visitors and researchers.

“Many come to me to find out more about the mosque. I take them to the mosque’s caretaker who knows more,” said Suljani, a local of Chinese descent who has served as RW head in the Arab quarter since 2008.

Suljani can explain the security, environment and local integrated health post (Posyandu). However, he let Jagabayan Mosque caretaker Muhammad Faozan talk about the mosque.

Kompas

Residents pray at the Sunan Gunung Jati Grave Complex, in Gunung Jati District, Cirebon Regency, West Java, Wednesday (13/7/2016).

This is just one example of interaction between locals of different faiths and cultures in Panjunan. The 90 families in RW 009 come from different cultures: Arab, Chinese, Javanese, Sundanese and Indian. Suljani, for one, prefers to be called “a Cirebon man”. Slanted eyes, pointed nose, white skin or brown skin, everyone speaks the Cirebon dialect fluently.

“Our parents have no specific message on diversity. We have lived in religious and cultural diversity since we were small. We played together all the time,” said Suljani, who has a jamu (traditional herb) shop.

As a person of Arab descent, Panjunan’s RW 005 head, Zaki Mubarak, 59, never had any second thought of living side by side with people from diverse cultural backgrounds. In his community, 40 percent of the 180 residents are of Arab descent, with those of Chinese, Javanese and Sundanese descent making up the rest.

Unique dishes

The mixture of various cultures and religions has brought about Panjunan’s legendary culinary delights. One famous example is the mi koclok Panjunan, a noodle dish created more than 50 years ago on Jl. Pekarungan.

The noodles have chicken slices, thick sago-based soup and sprinkles of fried shallots. Together with other Cirebon dishes, including nasi jamblang and docang with its wealth of spices and ingredients, all of these are part of Cirebon’s diverse mouth-watering delights. They all attract tourists.

Docang and nasi jamblang are closely linked to Sunan Gunung Jati. Docang was reportedly first created from the leftovers of society leaders’ meals, eaten by the common people in the hope of blessings. According to another story, docang was created by Ki Gede Bungko at the request of Sunan Gunung Jati.

Here, we have everything: Cirebon food, Middle-eastern food or Chinese food.

Jamblang was created in the late 14th century during the construction of Sang Cipta Rasa Grand Mosque. At the time, wood chips were taken and used to cook rice. The various condiments reflected Cirebon’s ethnic diversity. “Here, we have everything: Cirebon food, Middle-eastern food or Chinese food,” said Zaki, who has a Padang-style restaurant.

Urban planning

The veneration of Sunan Gunung Jati is inseparable from the celebration of Cirebon’s diversity. As one of the nine saints who spread Islam in Java, he had a significant role in shaping how people could live together despite their different backgrounds. Sunan Gunung Jati led Cirebon from 1479 to 1568.

Cirebon historian Mustaqim Asteja said locals of Chinese and Arab descent were given a place in the north of Pakungwati Palace, currently Kasepuhan Palace. Among the reasons was that it was situated near the coast, an entry point for immigrants.

“It also facilitated trade. At the time, Cirebon was a huge international port city,” he said.

Sunan Gunung Jati was also a skilled architect, as reflected in old Cirebon’s urban planning, with Kasepuhan Palace located on the south side, Sang Cipta Rasa Mosque on the west and the market in the north. A huge city square was situated in the middle of it all. “The location of the city square at the center of everything symbolized that the power was in the people’s hands. The two banyan trees symbolized the sultan’s care for them,” Kasepuhan Palace head tour guide Muhamad Hafid Permadi said.

Now, the port still stands around 2 kilometers from Kasepuhan Palace. It is mostly dominated by the loading and unloading of coal.

Quoting Tome Pires’ “Suma Oriental” manuscript (1513-1515), Cirebon Port was among the largest in Java and in Asia. A 1430 Chinese manuscript “Shun-Feng Hsiang-Sun” had instructions to sail eastbound from Shun-t’a (Sunda Pajajaran) to Che-Li-Wen (Cirebon).

Now, the port still stands around 2 kilometers from Kasepuhan Palace. It is mostly dominated by the loading and unloading of coal. Other activities are scarce. Due to minimal infrastructure, cruise ships cannot dock.

Now, a port revitalization is being planned. A dream of Cirebon’s glory is being constructed from the coast.